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At i-sells we are a 'Tier 1' Nuaire distributor. All Nuaire Products supplied by i-sells are genuine Nuaire stock and come with a full Nuaire warranty effective from the date of delivery. Any questions? Please contact us!
The unique DRI-ECO-HEAT-HC incorporates all of the functions of our DRI-ECO-LINK-HC unit but with the benefit of an integral heating element, located between the flexible duct and ceiling diffuser. This heating component will temper the air which is distributed through the property via the ceiling diffuser, thus ensuring a comfortable living environment. This pioneering design sees the low watt heater (400w) react efficiently and effectively, guaranteeing an economically friendly product. The DRIMASTER-ECO range provides whole home ventilation using the Positive Input Ventilation principle, which introduces fresh filtered air into the dwelling at a continuous rate, encouraging movement of air from inside to outside.
It has become the UK's most popular alternative method of low energy, cost-effective ventilation! Invented by Nuaire and installed in thousands of dwellings each year, PIV can be a more cost-effective and simple to install ventilation solution, whilst still meeting building regulations. CREATES A HEALTHY LIVING ENVIRONMENT Significantly improves indoor air quality by removing indoor air pollutants such as carbon monoxide and keeping out external pollutants such as traffic fumes and pollen. MOISTURE AND CONDENSATION ARE DRIVEN OUT The filtered air gently pressurises the home from inside out, forcing out the stale air. NO NEED TO OPEN WINDOWS TO VENTILATE Clean, fresh air is continuously drawn in through the lofts natural leakage points, passed through the filters and fed into the property via a central hallway diffuser.
Always get a qualified electrician for fitting the unit! The unit is supplied with a pre-wired power supply. This power supply unit has a metal bracket incorporating fixing holes, which should be used to fit the power supply to a suitable surface, e.g. a wooden joist. The fan unit is also supplied with a fused spur. The 3 core mains cable from the power supply should be connected to a fixed wiring installation, via the isolator, via the spur, in accordance with current IEE wiring regulations. 7 YEAR WARRANTY!
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Do you supply the optional controls for the new DRI-ECO-HEAT-HC, and can you tell me the price please? Also, do they require wiring or are the wireless? Many thanks.
Hello Andy Please see the range of control options below.NUADRI-ECO-2SNUADRI-ECO-4SNUADRI-ECO-RHNUADRI-ECO-RMNUADRI-ECO-CO2
Hi could you please tell me if this unit would be suitable to rid us of condensation and mould in a old stone cottage as what the approximate running costs are.
Hello NigelThank you for your question. As long as your loft is ventilated IE: has tile vents, or airbricks, or soffit vents for the outside air to come in then this unit will do your application. Nuaire has advised us that the estimated cost per year would be between £30.00 & £35.00, however this does depend on your tariff. If I can help any further please do not hesitate to contact me on 0208 463 9683Kind RegardsAnita
Can you confirm the duct size for drilling the ceiling please?
Also, can you extend the duct to two locations with a T-piece as I want to discharge in two locations due to the layout of my property?
What controls the heater on this eco heat piv. Does it heat the air all winter 24hrs a day?
I can't see it being very economical to run would a ordinary PIV be OK for a 3 bedroom bungalow? How do they cope when for instance the outside humidity today is 92% and the inside is 71%?
Hope to here from you soon Colin.
The heater is thermostat controlled and triggered when the temperature of the incoming air drops bellow comfort level, the range options are between 10 - 20 degrees and the setting is activated by the user (controller is in the diffuser).
The heater should be considered as a means of tempering the incoming air not as supplementary home heating as it would be cheaper to compensate for incoming cool air by temporarily increasing the heating thermostat.
The basic PIV was designed for houses which have a high ceiling at the top of the stairwell the incoming air would be blended with warm air that rises to ceiling height through convection, the heater version was introduced for properties such as bungalows that may have the same air volume but do not have the ceiling height.
You are correct, it is possiblethat during a very wet period we may get periods of high external humidityparticularly if it is wet and warm as the air can retain water vapour andthe lack of air movement (breeze) makes the air clammy and uncomfortable.However, it would be during a time like this that windows and doors are morelikely to be opened to provide additional air change, the continuous air movement prevents stagnant airpockets and creates a drying effect.
Temporary periods of high humidity outside are not a cause for concern as the RH is relative to temperature and even if introduced into the home the higher internal temperature will reduce the RH, even rainy periods during winter do not generally reach very high levels of humidity because theair is less able to hold moisture as vapour and during very cold periodshumidity can drop to 25% - 35%, evaporation of rainwater after a fall iscreated less by heat evaporation but is usually caused through increased airmovement due to high winds (same effect as drying clothes on a line) and it isduring these periods when we want to keep all of the windows and doors shut,but continue (as needs require) to create water vapour, internal humiditylevels can be kept stable through strategic use of heating, insulation andcontrolled air changes.
I have tried to keep this answersimple but also hope it answers your question.
HI, can you tell me what the differences are between the Drimaster Heat and the newer Drimaster Eco Heat version please?
hi can you give me a ideal of running cost if the heater was on and are these things ok for bungalow please
Thank you for your question. Yes this unit can be fitted in a bungalow as long as it has a ventilated loft space. The assumption cost for this unit is below. If I can help any further please do no hesitate to contact me on 0208 463 9683.
Electricity price: 14.9 pence per kWh - Source: http://www.ukpower.co.uk/tools/running_costs_electricity
Installation recommends setting thermostat for unit at10°C
NB: Thermostat measures loft / external incoming airtemperature not internal property temperature.
Therefore if temperature is below Nuaire recommended10°C then running cost of heater alone would be:
£0.07 per hour
£1.79 per 24 hour day
£12.52 per 168 hour week
£50.06 per 672 hour month
We have a loft which has had spray foam insulation added many years ago, yet we have really bad condensation, does the Nuaire product still work effectively with the spray foam ?
Hi. I have noticed the cost of running per hour, week month. Is this the cost when the heater is turned up?
Also, I tend to get condensation on his windows and slight mold around some upper walls but only in the winter months. Can the unit be turned off when not needed in spring/summer and turned back on when the weather gets colder again.?
If the figures below are what you are referring to then the answer is yes these are the heater running costs taken to the extreme case scenario
Recommendations are to wire the unit via a fused spur and it you did this with a switch instead you would have an on/off option
I have moved into a period property on three levels including a basement which has been tanked however we have high levels of humidity in the North facing basement and some salts & black mold appearing on a few internal basement walls. Although we are about to upgrade the central heating I expect that high humidity may continue to be an issue would the Nudari Eco Heat or any other system help?
Our attic is sealed with foam spray on the rafters, with an old velux window, would this unit be suitable? How much does this cost to run in a 3 bed semi?
Please see previous answer
In the pdf on page 3, section 10.4 it says,
"The set point ranges between 10 degrees C (fully anti-clockwise) and 20 degrees C (fully clockwise).
If that is the case the mid point would be 15 degrees C.
But in the I-sells youtube video I posted below it says "they recommend a mid point of 10 degrees."
Which is correct please?
Thanks for your reply.
I was not asking what temperature is correct for a home as that is subjective.
I was asking what the mid point setting of the blue dial is. I assume it is 15 degree C but at 5 minutes 10 seconds of the isells video I posted in my previous post it states the mid position is 10 degrees C.
I have checked the product brochure (specification section) and this states that the set point will be adjustable between 6?C and 20?C.
do I need to close the air-vents that are in my pvcu windows
I have got my central heating boiler in the loft,is it ok tofit a unit also
The only answer I can offer sight unseen would be yes, provided the loft is very well ventilated, there are some Gas Safe guidelines in BS5440 / C1which recommends a minimum distance of 300mm between a flue and a lateral 'ventopening' however, this does not appear to take into account an actual airintake point for PIV or MVHR and does not seem to have been updated to accountfor this type of system.Basically all care must be taken to avoid creating a negative pressure t hat may draw flue gases to the unit. If you download the product pdf title installation and Maintenance there is a very good section at the front regarding inspecting your loft for adequate ventilation. However, if in doubt we would recommend you consult with the boiler manufacturer or a Gas Safe engineer.
Hi, I notice in the picture it has a dial on the bottom part, which I guess is for altering settings. Does this means that you have to go up ladders to alter it if need to or I is there a wall mounted switch that can come with it to make this easier which also has an on off switch when away on holiday etc.
Hi. Trying to make my mind up on the best one to get for my house. Reading question 5 from Colin got me thinking which one I actually really need. Normal PIV model or the newer heater version.
My upstairs hall where it would go has a very high ceiling. Older style house with 9' ceiling however top to stairs to foor on the first part landing is a good 10 to 11'. I have read that the normal versions pump out cooler air and some have stated it can get a little chilly. Whereas the heater heats the air flow. What is the difference in temperature between the two? and which one is best for an older house with higher ceilings.
There's a big difference in price, so would like to get the correct one.
Don't want to be left regretting getting one that feels chilly when you walk past it, but don't want one that cost more on my electricity bills when I don't really need it.
Hi.Our loft air quality is not great tends to get black particles floating around which tends to cover boxes etc. There is a v slight smell too.
Our insulation in the loft may need replacing it has vermiculite with normal insulation roll ontop. It would be difficult job to replace.
My concern is the quality of loft air venting around the house. I have heard people on forums telling stories of musty smells being distributed around the house. Can the PIV filter cope with this or will it need need replacing often surely it would be black in no time. We do have new roof vents so fresh air can circulate.
Can you connect the PIV to draw outside air instead of using internal loft air?? A friend of mine claims he has done this but using a Kair PIV unit. I know you could use a flatmaster & connect but we have a standard 3 bedroom semi + loft so would not be adequate.
Looked at Whole House Ventilation which does draw air from outside but this is obviously an expensive option.
If you installed the Dri Master under these circumstances it would not improve air quality or controlcondensation in your house or the loft as the means of drawing air into thevoid are not sufficient for either.
Checkto ensure that the loft has adequate ventilation. There may be occasions wherea loft is so well sealed that additional ventilation may have to be provided. Ensure that all water tanks are covered and sealed. Checkthat all water pipes are lagged. Ensure that any extract fans are dischargingto outside and not into the loft. Check that the loft hatch is sealed.Ensure that all holes in the ceilings are sealed i.e. recessed ceiling lights etc
Oncethe loft ventilation has been increased or reinstated (rolling back the insulationat several points or installing sections of open ducting to clear an air paththrough it) the installation of the Dri Master can go ahead and the throughflow of air to the void on the way to the dwelling will create air change andair movement diluting stale air eventually drying the void andthe dwelling.
This may take several days and cleaning of the filters every few weeks initially but after a short time the air being introduced to the dwelling will be from atmosphere.
Trying to decide between model with or without heater - what is the difference in running costs?
The heater is thermostatcontrolled and triggered when the temperature of the incoming air drops bellowcomfort level, the range options are between 10 - 20 degrees and the setting isactivated by the user (controller is in the diffuser).
The heater should beconsidered as a means of tempering the incoming air not as supplementary homeheating as, over a prolonged cold spell, it would be cheaper to compensate for incoming cool air bytemporarily increasing the heating thermostat.
The basic PIV was designedfor houses which have a high ceiling at the top of the stairwell the incomingair would be blended with warm air that rises to ceiling height throughconvection, the heater version was introduced for properties such as bungalowsthat may have the same air volume but do not have the ceiling height.
The answer is really if you have a house and the system is to be installed in the loft supplying to the stairwell you probably do not need the heater version. If the heater was used regularly over a bad winter it could add up to 35.00 per year to the running costs.
Why does my nuair fan only switch on when the hall light is on?
If I wish to leave the Drimaster eco heat on all year round to improve air quality, when the weather warms up is it ok to open some windows in my bungalow or will this disrupt the efficiency of the PIV unit?
I have a ground floor flat which has severe mould problems, despite all trickle vents being open. It has only electric heating.
Could I use 1 of these units to solve the problem, and if so which would be best? With a heating option if possible.
Hi, we have a 3 bed bungalow with a vented loft space. Bad condensation particularly in bedrooms on windows. In our bedroom we just had a lovely bespoke fitted wardrobe on an outside wall, which infuriatingly gets condensation on external wall if temperatures drop. I'm interested in your product. Would I need 3 units, one for each bedroom? We have 2 close down one end, but another at opposite end of bungalow. Is fitting in bedroom ok with air blowing in vent?
I have a 3 bedroom property that has been over sealed by the previous owners renovations.
My sons room suffers greatly from black mould on the walls as does the hall way, which even forms puddles at the foot of the stairs during colder months.
I have looked at getting one of these units to help reduce the condensation problem however I think we would need a second outlet in the lads room.
You have mentioned in a previous answer about splitting the airflow to 2 locations by reducing the 200mm outlet to a 150mm.
How would this work if the heater unit is fixed with a 200mm input?
Also do you supply the reducer parts and ducts/diffusers?
Hello and thank you for your question
our electrician set this at number 1 should it be set at 2 please answer to my e-mail address
Will PIV "work" alongside continuous/constant bathroom fan extraction (6-15 l/s). The concern being that the new air introduced into property by the PIV will simply get extracted by the bathroom ventilation without allowing the PIV to build up adequate pressure/flow. That or the effect of the PIV will be minimised. Would you recommend turning off continuous bathroom ventilation if present?
I am looking at putting a unit into my daughter's flat and am looking at the heat and non-heat units.
there seems to be a bit of contradiction in your previous responses to running costs. In one response you say £30-£35 per year and in another it's £50 per month.
I presume the latter is assuming the unit is running constantly, which I believe it doesn't: I understand that you can set a thermostat on it and it is only when the loft air temperature falls below that setting that the heater will 'kick in'.
Obviously £50 per month is very highand would be prohibitive so do you have any real data on which to base running costs?
Hi there does the product come with a 240 v mains plug as I have a mains socket in my loft to plug into.
Hi. Does the ceiling duct have to be positioned in the centre of the house? Due to a loft extension, it will not be possible to put the duct at the top of my stairwell. The only open loft space we have is 8-10ft away from the top of the stairs, above a small corridor. Would the device still work sufficiently in this position? Many thanks.
Which model do I need to purchase for a two bedroom Bungalow,? Also does this unit need to be wired into the electrics,? Do you have any recommended fitters based in the North east of England.?
HI - does this machine make a noise at all? and can it be fitted in a thatched property (it its almost windy in our loft space!)
I am torn between whether I buy a heated unit or a standard one. What would determine this issue. I need one for a 4 bedroom house, one for a three bedroom house and one for a single bed flat with loftspace. Could you advise?
Is the heater just for comfort (respondents talk of cool air being circulated when no heater) or is it essential for the quality of the air circulation (is heated air more efficient than cool air)? Thanks Richard
The with/without issue should be determined by the type of dwelling in which the unit is to be installed and where thediffuser is to be located.
The system is designed to introduce air at high level and in houses,when heating is used, the warmest air naturally rises to ceiling height and is kept there by loft insulation, thestairwell ceiling generally being the highest point in a house therefore playshost to some of the warmest air in the dwelling, the benefit of which, is notfelt. If the input can be located at this level the incoming air is immediatelytempered and warm air redistributed. This type of installation would NOT require theheater version.
In a single floor property with lower ceilings 2.4m the air atceiling height is less warm and the heat transfer to incoming air is reducedand in this case consideration for including the heater may be given. However if, during a severe weather period, cooler air was being introduced over any length of time it would be muchmore cost effective to compensate by temporarily increasing the central heating by acouple of degrees than running the heater option.
i still have a little condensation on windows after frost i have it on at number 3 i live in a three bedroom bungalow
I would like to know the following:
The Nuaire Drimaster-Heat-Eco can have the diffuser on a right wall. When the diffuser is on the roof of the house, be on a side wall, as close to the ceiling as possible. I have loft, but the top of the rooms is low, so I only have the diffuser aside.
One more question my apartment has a strange setup, so I'll have to put two of these appliances on each side of the house (and the two with the same problem as the diffusers).
But the question is whether they can work together, and with the same commands?
Can the heater and unit be supplied from a spur off of the lighting circuit?
is it possible to turn on/off the heating element from the hallway control unit i.e. not just turn it down but disable the heater so that it does not temper the incoming cold air until I want to switch it back on in the vey cold months? (sorry I cant find a user manual online)
Hi, we live in a cottage with condensation / mould problems at the back of the building. There is a hatch at the top of the stairs, but because it's a vaulted ceiling, the only place to house the inlet / outlet would be in the hatch cover. Is this feasible? There is a good sized roof space to one side of the hatch, but this is over a bedroom.
Are the remote controls battery powered?
Can I connect both the Humidity and Control
sensors together to the unit?
I am hoping to purchase one of these, but my loft hatch takes up quite a bit of my landing ceiling. What’s is the closest the grill can be to walls/loft hatch/light fittings to work efficiently
I have just had the unit fitted by a NUAIRE recommended fitter and after half a days running, the unit has an 'F' flashing on it. According to the manual this indicates a fan failure and requires a replacement unit.
Serial Number of unit is 3794989
Hi I am having a problem with the drimaster eco. when I try to pair a 4 way switch to the drymaster its not pairing up . I have tried 2 new switches. also when I first power up the drymaster its not doing what its supposed to do hope you can help thanks carl
will this unit do a 4 bed house ? or would something larger be required.
I have the original non heated green Nuair Drimaster which needs to be replaced. Would the new eco heated blue version fit my current square ceiling diffuser (given the heat unit attaches to the new circular diffuser)? Or should I buy the previous green heated model which you have old stock? The eco one seems to be preferable if it will fit. Thanks, Paul Watts
Hi, does this unit come with everything i need to fit it or are there extras required, like switches, controls, thermostats and the vent that fixes to ceiling. I dont want to order it and then find there are additions required. Thanks.
I am considering fitting a drimaster eco heat in the hall of my three bed bungalow the central heating thermostat is 1.5 metes from where I would need to locate the diffuser would this cause any problems. Also the door to the lounge is 1.5 metres away ,would you feel the cold air coming into room. making it uncomfortable
Can you recommend an experienced installer and, if so, what would be the approximate costs for this product?
Do you have a fitting service,I don't like playing with electrics thanks tony
2 things; I have had the unit fitted and it has already cleared up the comdensation problem in 2 weeks flat. I am now looking to set the correct speed[it was set at 4] for normal running going forward and also the temp which was originally set at 14C. Also,what happens to the unit in spring/summer and can it be switched off then? It has been hard wired in to the supply
Do you have to keep internal doors open for the drimaster to work?
Do you know the contact details of a good, reliable electrician in the Meopham, Kent area who has history of fitting these devices? We have asked around and a lot of who we have called have not heard of them?
Hi we live in a tall 4 bedroom house - there are 4 floors including a basement and the ceiling are quite high. Would this unit work for us or is there a different unit that would be better? Thanks
I have read on forums that people are re-assured that only clean air enters the house, even filtering out traffic fumes - but I read on this site that the filters are only G3. G3 seems to only filter big stuff so no fumes for sure... but will it stop glass fibre dust from the loft, please?
I have a tenanted 2 storey 2 bedroom terraced house and would like to buy one of your units. Looking at your info it does not seem too necessary to buy the heated unit. In my case it would be fitted at the top of the stairwell ceiling. If I bought the non heated one, could I buy and fit the heater part to it later if there were problems?
If I understand the I&M PDF correctly, the only way you can switch off the Heater function is by installing a 4 way switch (and not on the defuser controls)?
Also my 3 bed bungalow's inner hallway is only 870mm wide, so I'm assuming I can really only install the model at Speed 2 given the siting requirement in Paragraph 4.1?
Hi i would like to know if their is a problem with the drymaster how do i get it fixed
We have a extract fan in bathroom with open vent in ceiling will this effect the drimaster from working properly or do we need a sealed vent.
Hi can this unit be fitted DIY or for the warranty does it need to be fitted by a trained engineer
Having installed and powered up the Nuaire, how do you then adjust the fan speed? The instructions in the box suggest doing this at install. Do I need to power-off & on?
Filters suitable for this unit
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